Saturday, February 15, 2020

Day 12: Home

Our final day delivered the extremes that New Zealand weather gods are known for. A perfect still, cool departure from Foxton, breakfast at Taihape in lovely morning sun and off towards the desert road with Ruapehu showing of his or her full glory. Then, in the space of 5 minutes, from expecting a perfect ride across the desert we hit a wall of wind, low cloud and rain. Suddenly we were in the midst of this intense ride in wet slick roads, fogged visor and cloud visibility of 50 metres. It was hectic. 
Then we rode out of that into a progressively warmer and dryer afternoon to end in blazing sun with all the vents open. Summer. 

It felt strang riding the last bit home on my own. 

So, after 3800km, many at the magical 30km/hr of perfect off road motor biking, some slower, some faster. We would have crossed 100 rivers and streams, not sure how many mountain passes that varied from sealed roads to goat tracks. Lots of lakes, lots of coffee stops with glorious views. 
The bikes did well with ultimately just minor issues. No technical problem stopped us at any stage. They were the perfect bike for the job. 

Some thanks needed of course, apart from to the bikes. To my friends Bernie and Dave. It was great to have 3 of us together and sad to let Bernie go home. Thanks Bernie for organising and navigating such incredible days in the Clarence. Best accomodation of the trip, even though I froze!
Thanks Dave for all the organising. We made a great team, getting each other through some pretty intimidating situations. Your riding progressed incredibly through the trip. And you taught me how to get on the bike, do skiddies in the dirt and best of all, snuck into the adjacent motel room to steal me milk for my coffee. 👍
I look forward to the next one. 
Finally, and yet again, my thanks and love to Jennie and the boys for letting me go. I always look forward to coming home as much as I do to the leaving. https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tiNiYiZFLQS4es3qm98edP0YcSr_Acynhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EkEAuHMDOgnRZaJnwMpAMG-VO4ApXVJ4https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ggwgtjwx2I6xX3XZIT17UPWkIltNH3l-https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1788vYZx67iuBTIz8_qbzPL0_qan2kzivhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dN4j7Hgg4zSlLdbSIDhA1gde7agNw2Aahttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17QTl6J5Xceen2vZHYAikQAhBIBwIuF8ehttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CuVT7M9MR-EjWTEsDkIZnnoIH-sRJd1I

Day 11: Foxton

Today did not turn out as planned. We had hoped that the scenic Rainbow Road would be a fitting end to our South Island trip but sadly, despite the website saying it was open, the sign at the start said it was closed. Plan B, the Molesworth had been closed for a few weeks due to very dry conditions so we had to resort to plan C and start the long road transport home via Kaikoura. There were lots of other motorcycles heading back the same way as it is a popular time iof the year to ride in the South (people are under the impression that it is summer but we know better). The weather was cold and a significant proportion of other motorcyclists were pricks. We hope not to be associated with them, with our little dirt oriented bikes looking quite grubby now. 
Sadly again no photos today then. We had an uneventful ferry crossing with lots of other bikes. One had to fight through the machismo to get a parking spot!
Foxton tonight, a late arrival before the last push home tomorrow. 

Thursday, February 13, 2020

Day 10: Hanmer Springs

Today was a short transport day from Methven to Hanmer Springs with the idea of some recovery before the last push home. Tomorrow we plan to follow the Rainbow Road to St Arnaud, and from there it’s the home leg of ferry via Picton. It will be an early start. 
Of course it’s summer in NZ and so we set off in chilly drizzle. Dave’s bike obliged by no longer supplying heat to his heated grips but at least his radiator is behaving. The trip north was unremarkable and not a single photo was taken. 

Most people will be aware that testicles are trouble. They lead men to do things that they often regret and to be fair, often women regret them too. However, in the context of motor biking , testicles need to be pleasured. Us boys need to blow off steam on occasion and one of the fun ways of doing that is power slides ( this is not a euphemism). 
Dave, who is beginning to annoy me with his progression has got the hang of it and frankly has been a bit offensive with his showing off. 
After watching him I had a go again, and finally pulled off a few half decent efforts. Finally. The fact that it was a cafe car park in a most inappropriate place is only mildly embarrassing and somehow there is comfort that 2 mild mannered middle aged men can still behave like young pricks. 
A seminal moment for me on a slow news day. 

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1M_1HFzOX5ay7WIYgur3_Jp0YsenicTGq

Day9: Methven

“It’s not a nothing day.” This turn of phrase has crept into our conversation around some of our easier days that delivered more than expected. In fact, so far on this trip we haven’t had any nothing days. Today sure as hell wasnt a nothing day!
We did our last day of technical riding in remote terrain crossing the Dunstan mountains twice, the first time on Thompson’s Gorge track starting near Bendigo and ending near Oturahua on the Otago rail trail. Lovely way to start the day which was slightly complicated by navigation issues due to some development obliterating the start of the track. A ride across a paddock and we found the start and were on our way. I didn’t like some hesitation on how my bike started at one gate though. 
From there through historic St Bathans and then towards the Omarama saddle via the west branch of the Manurehika River. This was our last technical challenge section, due to crossing the river(or stream if you are Kiwi) 25 times as you make your way up the valley before the track pushes up to the saddle. We stopped to take a photo of Dave doing the first crossing, and this time my bike was distinctly reluctant to start. Obviously I don’t worry about things much so this set a distinct tone of unease for me with my solution being not to switch my bike off ever again. Oh, and don’t stall. 
Dave was riding beautifully but with this wisp of cloud drifting across my happy place I started unravelling. Each crossing I got worse, flailing with legs and bouncing around on the saddle when I should have been up on the pegs. One very close shave where I almost dropped the bike in the river and I realised I needed to reset. But I didn’t want to switch if my motor as we were now a long way from anywhere. It was a long stressful ride and I was very glad to ascend away from any water. Dave behaved like a real prick by just getting better and better until he was riding like some 2 wheeled god, doing wheel stands through the crossings and suchlike. Prat. 
We eventually got to Omarama and civilisation. Obviously at some point I had to switch off the bike and having had some restorative coffee and food we set off again. The bike started first time, no worries. It too is a prick. Not my finest few hours. 
Anyway, we made our way north past Pukaki and Tekapo, with their astonishing chalk blue colours in the sun. Tekapo looked like it was having a camper van convention. The ride to Fairlie was stunning with the mountains showing off their beauty and now looking quite benign. 
I’ve done that road many times in a car, never on a bike. It’s better on the bike. 
The 690 was originally designed as a rally race bike, and although I rarely ride it like that the excuse to overtake opens the door to an exhilarating hit of acceleration. Lots of fun in a mildly naughty way against a stunning backdrop. 
The photos are from Thompson’s Gorge in the morning, Dave showing how you should cross a river, the descent towards Omarama and civilisation. 

 https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eqIwZXKWf86LyNrZ2B7X3Ba4R4VQHplehttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jWBJIca9D0F9pd8wI3nKxIidMrtw1eYlhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SyskMSx4bXFmibbSCGistewaMtoJGzddhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1oRNhb8s6fZ1IejQuDzI0wr3UQ6lqNjr1https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Tm9LQCspO9Y5j9HICbVVJXesoDaDdQrLhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XREbRUfsUgwkDWm-hq4h5IhZyAh9qf3Ghttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fKYiL2ATVoJ0YBC3Qho52twHVkRgt6Fmhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=109WY692vBqsxx8gX3BswP8BTnuDbnB_L

And a few more..

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Blcin1R0Ha2tCHVyweOydYZx_DBHodJ1https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17FVZhSd1vv4SosKERnbA1yd1jPUB84iMhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IdFVcatgoPHTVpEwU4sDop54jwTkqAH5https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dJqnBN1g2l3Ua6kLGhzjAv4WAZ0jacamhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1H_NqPFyy-z9x2iMvC2A_T2ZUEW13iPArhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BGzjUkCRgKRBrCiyxRzf8VcTyuZebeEahttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1T4LXU8vqpd9Pq82iailXeczqT_gO8uXfhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_uvf2_52Dc17IJBfuxj4sE182sIJavIb
I can’t load as many pictures as I would like. The picture on my bike is the same spot I stood 10 years ago, at the turn off to Walter Peak. 

Day 8:Cromwell.

Today was a day of incredible beauty, some complexity and Dave at his best. 
The reason I wanted to show Dave the Von road will hopefully be pretty bloody obvious from the photos. I was here 10 years ago, almost to the day, on my first multi day adventure ride. I remember being struck by the immense beauty of this place and figured it was time to show Dave this place. The Von travels from the Mavora lakes, incredibly beautiful in their own right towards Mt Nicholas and Walter Peak homesteads through a wide alpine valley that can only be described as majestic. Not many travel it as it is a dead end road, ending in the shore of lake Wakatipu although farm workers and cyclists travel it. Of course we are resourceful little fellows and so were able to arrange a ferry crossing from Mt Nicholas to Queenstown. It was interesting riding on and off, hoping not to make tits of ourselves by ending up in the lake. And of course being watched by other tourists so one obviously couldn’t appear too hesitant as one eyes up a rocking gangplank with a right turn up a steep incline to the deck!
Thankfully we didn’t cock up and maintained modest coolness in front of the hoards. We stayed out in deck as we must stink something godawful. 
Dave made me happy today. Those that know him superficially see him as a thoughtful and considerate, mild tempered man. He has layers though, and although I digress(it’s worth it) he was one of a trio of the first 3 paragliders in New Zealand, and I mean first flight. With no training he threw himself off the Remarkables access road, hoping he would float to the bottom. He did, although perhaps quicker than expected, as he would have been dragged down to watch by the weight of his canones. 
I could write several posts about his multi textured past, but let’s get back to Queenstown. 
Most kiwis are aware that Qtown is a shithole surrounded by paradise, come to think of it that could be a euphemism but this is a family channel. 
So 30 seconds after getting off the ferry we are in gridlock. This is when it became fun. Dave cracked and roared off up the wrong side of the road, switched across to the gutter on the left and made his way through Qtown central in a matter of minutes almost running an annoying little man off a zebra crossing because he was walking too slowly (actually that was me come to think of it) and scooting across a final intersection to a chorus of hooting and shouting. I am not exaggerating. I was so proud. By the way, you may not understand but the rules are different for dirt bikes 😉. 
So we have had some complications with Dave’s radiator having sprung a minor leak, possibly from a stone but who knows. The advice from our various learned friends is don’t  panic, keep an eye on it, top up as needed and maybe add sealant. Usually this would be a none issue but we are back into remote country tomorrow and don’t want mechanical drama if possible. 
So to make space for the sealant we need to remove some coolant and to do that we decided a syringe would be the easiest. Because I’m the doctor Dave sends me into the chemist on the basis that I know what a syringe looks like. Of course I haven’t shaved since I left home, I’m covered in dust and smell like I am sleeping under a bridge. Not surprisingly the pharmacist starts looking alarmed when I request a selection of syringes and especially when I ask if I can have needles (as we need the length to get down into the fluid in case your mind went the same way as the chemist). I settled her down but left without needles and note to self that I now look like a hardcore drug addict as well. 
On the matter of drugs, I need a cup of tea before I go to bed. 
The photos are Mavora Lakes, Von Road and Mt Nicholas with some afternoon mist drifting in(mist in the heat of summer, only in NZ!).
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13zWNMwCs9rYtjohehJFzvj3lD3bXqz2ohttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mtMTX9omuzbVr8q9eVFevH8gsbey3bAThttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1O-i1m-u0Uf5WvJ1hAUiJ2_gpcLoi3cOBhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-4p-Yc_DaTmQt3ZmH2UayyOPi5jBKBTyhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10AuIcd6wZjo2uYM2Uas6fiUXBGWeVFRw


Monday, February 10, 2020

Day7: Lumsden

A day of 2 halves for us. We had an early start in very frosty but beautiful conditions out of Waikaia. Evidence of the recent floods was all around, with sections of tar seal stripped off the access road to Piano Flat. As we rode up the valley we entered beech forest and a glorious little gravel road, steadily climbing up through the tree line. Once we broke out of the trees we joined a rough 4wd track that pointed straight up the mountain. Fortunately dry it was awesome fun with steep rock slabs interspersed with rutted off camber track. We eventually topped out at 1600m and then traversed along the top of the old man range. Really interesting riding and topography. And of course, incredible views, especially as we started our descent on the east towards Alex. All our photos today are from this part of the ride. 
Sadly, after lunch we planned to do the Nevis valley road, only to find it was closed due to a slip after the floods. So an afternoon road ride it was, riding 160km around through the Kawerau gorge and then South past Kingston to our overnight stop if Lumsden, back in Southland. Actually it was quite fun. We were lucky to have a pretty good run through the gorge with the KTM reminding me that it is also an awesome road bike with incredibly sharp handling. Nice. 
And then we met the Queenstown traffic. 
We ended up in Lumsden sooner than expected so the single pair of undies and socks got another wash!
Tomorrow we start our convoluted path home, taking in the Mavora Lakes and Vonn Road on our way to Queenstown and Cromwell. If they haven’t been washed away of course..https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pR-yg4rs2sKZjG2sm_rlz2R7Et2h5l5Vhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10ZqgT2HOFSfECSz7-6Xc4mvhmTbUm92jhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uGa3uSN3oj4mzm1LmhSB7et8UzsQtfHChttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mjTMDZuMosUT0Gtls1zOjweqVMumsjgRhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bsMk81NEFKrZw1hBj4-shkMwzgJiihsbhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NJgQd_Go5aDW8U9QzhJXYyGMS_MxJHG8https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YkXvXEDTwOVEHewNng_cjaV2AoeR3lnU